This is a big weekend for people here in Donegal--and I suppose down in Kerry, too, but I can only speak for my own neck of the woods. People are bouncing off the walls in anticipation of the GAA football* finals match on Sunday afternoon. Flags are flying everywhere--and I mean everywhere. You can't go anywhere without seeing a sea of green and gold. Shops are telling people they have large flags in stock. People are wearing their green and gold jerseys. This guy in Falcarragh was taking advantage of the opportunity to sell some flags yesterday and since today is market day there, I suspect he's back again.
We were on the bus in the middle of nowhere yesterday morning when we passed an abandoned out building--no roof, no windows, just the outer shell remaining. Someone had painted it green and gold before, but now there's a giant Donegal flag hanging off it. Many shops are closed on Sundays anyway, but some of the ones that aren't have announced that they're closing early so staff can watch the game. Donegal hasn't been competing for Sam (the Sam Maguire cup, given to the champions) since we've been in the country, so it's been interesting to see the excitement. The town we just left is the home place of some players and the manager, so win or lose, it'll be chaos there, I'm sure. But I have been thinking that if they lose, it'll be pretty gloomy all over the county, so I guess I'll hope to send the gloom south to Kerry and hope that everyone's wish to get 'Sam for the Hills' comes true. So does this 85-year-old guy--a dedicated fan if ever there was one!
*The Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) has been and still is an important part of Irish identity and community building. The players don't get paid to play and it's not the same as professional sports teams in the US. The vibe here for these games is completely different than it was when I lived in places where the professional sports teams were in the playoffs/finals. In the Irish places I've lived, the football has been the big thing. It's been a pretty big deal in every town and village we've lived in and people of all ages get into the spirit of the thing and volunteer many hours to the cause. There are many different levels of play. This is the All-Ireland Final, which has county teams, but there are also teams in towns and villages and many different age categories, so lots of teams. I never have figured out the structure, but it seems like these town and village teams compete for the regional crown--the town we just left won the Ulster title a couple years ago, which resulted in disruptive noise pollution events for days. One BEGAN at 2:30 am. I think the county team is comprised of the best players from the town and village teams, but I'm not sure. I do know that at least some play on both teams.
In addition to the football, there is hurling, but that's not as big a deal in Donegal as it is further south. I've watched some hurling (called camogie when women play) and it's a pretty wild game involving a flat-ended stick (hurley) and a smallish ball with lots of running while balancing and moving the ball. I understand that game even less than I understand the football.
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Here in Donegal, football is the big thing. Football here means Gaelic football, which is not soccer or 'American' football, but its own particular game with a goal and cross bars on top, so there are different ways to score. I don't know all the ins and outs, but I've been told that things will get very quiet here on Sunday afternoon as people gather in homes, bars, restaurants, or wherever they can to watch the game--if they haven't gone to Croke Park in Dublin to watch in person, that is. As they say, Up Donegal!
4 comments:
I suppose that sport, in a way, is a surrogate for actual combat between opposing forces. It ignites passion beyond any other activity I can think of.
It does indeed, David. The vibe here is different to what I've experienced before when professional local teams were in championship games. This is really a community spirit kind of thing. Local people of all ages volunteer a lot of time to the GAA and the players don't get paid. It seems to be a good thing for the community.
Am enjoying the Miss Silver books…lots going on here….brenda
I need to get back to those, Brenda--thanks for the reminder. So many books, so little time! Hope all is well.
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